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Shelly B
They're regular ceramic tiles that create a border on the inside of my hot tub/jacuzzi. Is there a special adhesive that I can use? Do I have to grout? Do I have to caulk? I'm just really confused on what substance I have to use to stick them back on to the inside of my hot tub. Thanks for your help!
Answer
First before you start on any repairs, I recommend that you drain your hot tub & dry it out, and then I recommend that you check the rest of the tiles in the tub enclosure - to make sure they are all sound, and you're not going to have to remove & replace some more tiles just as soon as you get the ones replaced that fallen off right now. To check tiles for solid adhesion you tap the vertically installed tiles with a hardwood wood dowel, (to hear the difference, (Take one of the tiles that has come loose and reinstall it back into the opening into which it came - and then duct tape it in place - with the duct tape "picture framing the loose tile on all four sides about 1". then lightly apply pressure with your thumb and index finger to the top & bottom edges of the taped in loose tile - to hold it firmly to the the back up sub-strate. Using your 10"-12" 1" diameter hardwood dowel "tap" on the tightly installed tiles around the "loose" tile - and hear how the tapping sounds. Now, tap on the "loose" tile, hear the difference? Now tap the "loose" tile again and then tap one of the solidly grouted tiles and listen for the difference.
On horizontal tiles you can uses this same technique - or "chain" the tiles - if they are 6" x 6" or larger. " Chaining"
a surface is simply taking a chain, (in the case of tile - use a 5/8" link chain, and yuo just lift the chain about 3" to 4 " above the tile and drop the chain down until a coiple of links strike the tile surface. Loose tiles will give off a "Hollow" sound.
Once you have identified all loose tiles, carefully remove the tiles and the thin set grout from behind then to a depth of about 5/8 ". Do this demolition work before you go to the tile shop for replacement supplies, (hopefully you have extra tiles from when you did the tub in the first place, - it can be very difficult to match the color of tiles - even cremes, whites and primary colors, - so sometimes I've advised the client to consider taking out additonal tiles at random locations - and then pick out a an "accent" tile - which specifically does NOT match the existing tile work.
Anyway, do all demo work first - in case you damage adjacent tiles, or loosen them as you prep the openings for the new tiles. Once finished count the number of tiles you need and the colors, (take a tile or big pieces of existing tile you want to match with you to the tile shop; and a sample of the joint grout too, - so you can match the tile & joint grout- unless you've got extra stock on hand in storage.
Go to your local Tite shop and ask for a quick seting epoxy adhesive kit, or fusion epoxy setting grout, (DO NOT USE THIS GROUT FOR GROUTING JOINTS!!). Describe what you are doing, - and how much surface area you need to replace. For the joint grout, use a latex modified anti-microbial / anti-fungicial grout that will not sustain mold growth..
Setting buttons. I use setting buttons under each of the 4 corners of the replacement tiles to make sure the finished surface of the replacement tile is held in the same plane as the existing tile. I use sections of pencil eraser for setting buttons under the replacement tiles. I buy long sections of eraser about the diameter of the pencil - that are used in powered eraser guns. , I get these at office supply stores, Art & Architectural supply stores.
To install the setting buttons, just slide a straight edge over each corner of the tile "Pocket" where you are going to install a replacement tile - in about 1"from each edge- at each cornerand measure the depth of the pocket - which should be about 5/8" - 3/4" deep. Allowing for a tile thickness of 5/16" means that if the overall depth at the liaction you measured & marked was 5/8" deep - then you cut you setting button to 5/16" deep. 5/16" + 5/16" = 10/16 = 5/8". Set the eraser "Buttons" in place with quick drying super glue.
Using two part epoxy (Resin & hardener) adhesive is appropraite for horizontal applications, - but a poor choice for vertical applications. On vertical surfaces, go with quickset fusion grout , (you can also ad acryl 60 - a liquid adhesive the color and consistensy of skim milk to the mix - in lieu of water - remember this though - this grout sets up very quick - so make is small batches and work fast, and clean up any over spill on finihedsurfaces ASAP..
Hold tiles in place once the thin set or two part epoxy is in place, and in full contact with the tiles. When dry, ( follow manufacturers guide lines). In the meantime, if all of the tiles that you need to replace are just in the border -(everything else you tested was "good", Take advantage of the fact that the tub is drained to clean the jacuzzi tiles & grout, check all the jets, re-seal and jet seats that might need re-sealing - remove calcium depostis from chrome trim & jet nozzles, dry out cleaned tub, and seal tile & grout, - by buffing sealant into tiles and joints.
Once replacement tiles are set, fill in jloints withwater ptoof / mold resistant anti-mcrobial joint grout, and strike the joints with a damp towell, then finish off the job as you would any tile project - do not forget to seal the remaining tile worl that you did not seal aloready. I would not use the tub for a week.
Good luck, - I think if you follow these easy steps you will be very satisfied with your results.
When setting tile is dry
First before you start on any repairs, I recommend that you drain your hot tub & dry it out, and then I recommend that you check the rest of the tiles in the tub enclosure - to make sure they are all sound, and you're not going to have to remove & replace some more tiles just as soon as you get the ones replaced that fallen off right now. To check tiles for solid adhesion you tap the vertically installed tiles with a hardwood wood dowel, (to hear the difference, (Take one of the tiles that has come loose and reinstall it back into the opening into which it came - and then duct tape it in place - with the duct tape "picture framing the loose tile on all four sides about 1". then lightly apply pressure with your thumb and index finger to the top & bottom edges of the taped in loose tile - to hold it firmly to the the back up sub-strate. Using your 10"-12" 1" diameter hardwood dowel "tap" on the tightly installed tiles around the "loose" tile - and hear how the tapping sounds. Now, tap on the "loose" tile, hear the difference? Now tap the "loose" tile again and then tap one of the solidly grouted tiles and listen for the difference.
On horizontal tiles you can uses this same technique - or "chain" the tiles - if they are 6" x 6" or larger. " Chaining"
a surface is simply taking a chain, (in the case of tile - use a 5/8" link chain, and yuo just lift the chain about 3" to 4 " above the tile and drop the chain down until a coiple of links strike the tile surface. Loose tiles will give off a "Hollow" sound.
Once you have identified all loose tiles, carefully remove the tiles and the thin set grout from behind then to a depth of about 5/8 ". Do this demolition work before you go to the tile shop for replacement supplies, (hopefully you have extra tiles from when you did the tub in the first place, - it can be very difficult to match the color of tiles - even cremes, whites and primary colors, - so sometimes I've advised the client to consider taking out additonal tiles at random locations - and then pick out a an "accent" tile - which specifically does NOT match the existing tile work.
Anyway, do all demo work first - in case you damage adjacent tiles, or loosen them as you prep the openings for the new tiles. Once finished count the number of tiles you need and the colors, (take a tile or big pieces of existing tile you want to match with you to the tile shop; and a sample of the joint grout too, - so you can match the tile & joint grout- unless you've got extra stock on hand in storage.
Go to your local Tite shop and ask for a quick seting epoxy adhesive kit, or fusion epoxy setting grout, (DO NOT USE THIS GROUT FOR GROUTING JOINTS!!). Describe what you are doing, - and how much surface area you need to replace. For the joint grout, use a latex modified anti-microbial / anti-fungicial grout that will not sustain mold growth..
Setting buttons. I use setting buttons under each of the 4 corners of the replacement tiles to make sure the finished surface of the replacement tile is held in the same plane as the existing tile. I use sections of pencil eraser for setting buttons under the replacement tiles. I buy long sections of eraser about the diameter of the pencil - that are used in powered eraser guns. , I get these at office supply stores, Art & Architectural supply stores.
To install the setting buttons, just slide a straight edge over each corner of the tile "Pocket" where you are going to install a replacement tile - in about 1"from each edge- at each cornerand measure the depth of the pocket - which should be about 5/8" - 3/4" deep. Allowing for a tile thickness of 5/16" means that if the overall depth at the liaction you measured & marked was 5/8" deep - then you cut you setting button to 5/16" deep. 5/16" + 5/16" = 10/16 = 5/8". Set the eraser "Buttons" in place with quick drying super glue.
Using two part epoxy (Resin & hardener) adhesive is appropraite for horizontal applications, - but a poor choice for vertical applications. On vertical surfaces, go with quickset fusion grout , (you can also ad acryl 60 - a liquid adhesive the color and consistensy of skim milk to the mix - in lieu of water - remember this though - this grout sets up very quick - so make is small batches and work fast, and clean up any over spill on finihedsurfaces ASAP..
Hold tiles in place once the thin set or two part epoxy is in place, and in full contact with the tiles. When dry, ( follow manufacturers guide lines). In the meantime, if all of the tiles that you need to replace are just in the border -(everything else you tested was "good", Take advantage of the fact that the tub is drained to clean the jacuzzi tiles & grout, check all the jets, re-seal and jet seats that might need re-sealing - remove calcium depostis from chrome trim & jet nozzles, dry out cleaned tub, and seal tile & grout, - by buffing sealant into tiles and joints.
Once replacement tiles are set, fill in jloints withwater ptoof / mold resistant anti-mcrobial joint grout, and strike the joints with a damp towell, then finish off the job as you would any tile project - do not forget to seal the remaining tile worl that you did not seal aloready. I would not use the tub for a week.
Good luck, - I think if you follow these easy steps you will be very satisfied with your results.
When setting tile is dry
How many support posts for a hot tub deck?
Dastardly
I'm building a deck for a hot tub, weight filled will be about 1,200 lbs. Tub size is about 7' by 7'. Deck size is about 9' by 15'.
How many posts should i use? What size posts?
Answer
I would use 6x6 support post for the main skeleton of the framing spanned at a max of 8' apart. Where the hot tub would set I would add 6 more 6x6 support post. Dig holes a min of 42" deep and pour 8" of concrete to place 6x6 post on. Do Not Set 6x6 in concrete. Set them on the concrete and back fill with about 12"
of 2-B stone then top off with soil, unless your stoning the entire area under the deck. I think stoning is better for water drainage. Make sure to back fill while just the skeleton is in place and have adequate slope from the House wall.
I assume the 9 foot will be the distance from the house. If this is correct I would set the 6x6 post at 8' and cantilever the other 1'. The joist or cross members should be a min of 2x12 and double them up at the hot tub area.. When attaching the deck board to the house use the through bolt method. Just lagging into the house will not be structurally sound and could pull out of the house. I have seen this happen 3 times in the last 10 years.
The weight of a gallon of water is about 8.5 pounds. Plus the tub and number of people on the deck at any giving time.
A project like this normally involves getting a building permit. You should check with your local building codes enforcer.
Good Luck!
I would use 6x6 support post for the main skeleton of the framing spanned at a max of 8' apart. Where the hot tub would set I would add 6 more 6x6 support post. Dig holes a min of 42" deep and pour 8" of concrete to place 6x6 post on. Do Not Set 6x6 in concrete. Set them on the concrete and back fill with about 12"
of 2-B stone then top off with soil, unless your stoning the entire area under the deck. I think stoning is better for water drainage. Make sure to back fill while just the skeleton is in place and have adequate slope from the House wall.
I assume the 9 foot will be the distance from the house. If this is correct I would set the 6x6 post at 8' and cantilever the other 1'. The joist or cross members should be a min of 2x12 and double them up at the hot tub area.. When attaching the deck board to the house use the through bolt method. Just lagging into the house will not be structurally sound and could pull out of the house. I have seen this happen 3 times in the last 10 years.
The weight of a gallon of water is about 8.5 pounds. Plus the tub and number of people on the deck at any giving time.
A project like this normally involves getting a building permit. You should check with your local building codes enforcer.
Good Luck!
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Title Post: A few tiles have fallen off of the inside of my jacuzzi/hot tub; how & with what adhesive do I put them back?
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Rating: 92% based on 9172 ratings. 4,3 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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